An Intro to Building Gunpla: The Very Basics
- Jacob Harris
- 19 hours ago
- 3 min read

Gunpla is a hobby that, well… may need some introduction. Gunpla, short for Gundam plastic models, are usually produced by Bandai in Japan. Starting in 1980 in Japan, Gunpla quickly became a hit locally. By the mid-1990s, it had also developed a following in the United States.
Gunpla follows a basic grading system with four main grades, along with some intermediate options. High Grade (HG) is the easiest, at 1/144 scale. Real Grade (RG) is the same scale but more complex. Master Grade (MG) is at 1/100 scale and is vastly more intricate, usually including full inner frames. Finally, Perfect Grade (PG) is 1/60 scale and represents the “grail” for Gunpla collectors. It features highly complex inner frames and extensive builds, often taking several days to complete.
Enough with the history lesson—let’s get into the actual build.
This article will not cover panel lining, action bases, painting, or kitbashing.

There are some essential tools you will need: a pair of hobby nippers, files of different grits, and a pair of tweezers. Files of 400 grit work well for sanding off rough nubs, and 1000 grit can smooth out scratches left by the 400. For tweezers, choose a pair with thin tips to easily handle small stickers.

After removing the plastic ribbons, open the box to find the bags with the sprues. Sprues are sheets of ABS or PS plastic, made by injection molding, that hold the parts needed to build the kit. Once the bags are open, sort the sprues by color, letter, or any system that works for you.
Next, pull out the instruction manual. Some kits have a brochure-style manual, while others have a full book with pages. This High Grade (HG) Gundam Barbatos comes with the folding brochure type.

With the sprues and instructions laid out, the real fun begins.
When reading the instructions, pay attention to how the parts are oriented on the page. This will help ensure proper assembly. Each part is noted in the instructions—for example, A3 goes into B2.
When cutting parts from the sprue, do not cut directly next to the piece. Leave about 1/3 to 1/2 inch of sprue attached, roughly the size of your pinky finger. Once cut, you will likely notice nubs or white stress marks that need to be filed.
Start filing with the 400-grit file until the nub is gone, taking care not to oversand. Then use the 1000-grit file to remove scratches left by the 400. This ensures a clean, polished look for your model.
You may also encounter polycaps during your build. Polycaps are small rubber-like pieces used in joints and spare parts, usually noted as “P.C.” in the instructions. They are typically gray and rarely come in other colors.
Now that you’ve learned the basics, go forth, build, and explore this hobby. You’ll end up with a small, highly posable figure that looks amazing on any shelf.
Now that you’ve learned the basics, go forth, build, and explore this hobby. You’ll end up with a small, highly posable figure that looks amazing on any shelf.

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